Good life..

There was a recent event, 2.5 months back, that set us back a tad.  As you may know..I nearly destroyed my left wrist skateboarding.. requiring surgery and a small titanium plate, screws, etc..

I have since slowed down some, healed near fully, and haven't REALLY missed skateboarding THAT much.. though I do enjoy it.  What i did miss however was surfing.....  and it feels good to say that I can now go surfing.  Not just go to the smallest waves possible and ride my long-board( which i realize each time i do that, it's really fun too), but actually going wherever looks best and enjoying where I left off in late Sept.  This past weekend was a culmination of two good things at once, as I enjoyed overhead surf at a not-to-be-named spot on the north coast of California, and a brand new board from the Hess flavor.  Being out on a new shred craft in good waves was a true blessing...  and no matter how fun and rewarding skateboarding truly is .... well.. it's just not even close to experiencing the beauty and rawness of the ocean.  S0.. simple enough, without going into all that would examine my crazy thoughts about how far I should or can push my limits on a skateboard, which alone has fascinated and challenged me for 15+ years, I know that it isn't paying the bills... and my health to keep surfing means a whole lot more than grinding some pool coping.  I want to appreciate the Good life...  I will grind again, I will likely fall again.. but now, I'd like to go surf.  Peace, and God bless this Christmas.